Visions and Voices: Through the Body of Mudang and Thoughts of Anthropologist
(Tetralogue between shamans, their clients, spirits and anthropologist in the Korean gut)
Goyang, 2018
This research is based on the biographies of three shamans versed in two different types of rituals, gut. One of them is a specialist in Ogu-gut, and two are experienced in the tradition of Hwanghae-do, a North Korean province known for its rich shamanic tradition. I will observe the shamans’ biographies during their ordinary lives in childhood, their inner and outer struggles after they have experienced the call of spirits, sinbyeong, and finally when they start to shamanize with their own clients, after being initiated through the Naerim-gut.
In this context, I consider biography as a work of art full of mysteries which are connected with the highest enigmas of human existence, esp. with its grief, suffering and illness. All of my three shamans share the same archetypal path of becoming a shaman, very similar course of sinbyeong, until finally renouncing their own individuality, making room for their spirits and serving them. Shaping further their own shamanic practices is their biography which is decisive in how they proceed. Two of my shamans are now acting internationally promoting and teaching the shamanic tradition, while one of them, a paksu, is active in theatrical performances and transforming the ritual itself through introducing various non-traditional elements such as Indian music in the jakdu-gori of Hwanghae gut.
For anthropological research, these elements are essential in the interpretation of biographies and their shaping of shamanic activities between cultures. Furthermore, the research will also observe these activities as a tetralogue between shaman, spirits, client and anthropologist.
Buddhism as Cultural Experience - Temple Stay and Seonmudo
In this project I want to discuss the recently emerging phenomenon of temple stay, which is a cultural experience program that has been steadily gaining popularity among tourists as well as foreigners living in South Korea and even Koreans themselves. It has been designed to offer curious participants the opportunity to spend a night or more in a Buddhist temple, and, in doing so, to experience the life of monks at first-hand, while gaining a better understanding of Korean Buddhism in general.
In addition to that there are temples offering special experiences in certain forms of meditation. One of them is the Golgulsa temple, where monks and temple stay participants practice seonmudo, a kind of dynamic meditation through movements which combine yoga, qi gong and traditional Korean martial arts on the corporeal level, while cultivating breathing techniques with the purpose of calming the mind and deepening one’s awareness. In one tourist advertisement seonmudo has been described as belonging to an esoteric tradition passed down through the centuries, even though it has only been revived and practiced since 1980. The meaning of the word seonmudo is “the way of martial Zen”, while the enacted movements represent embodiment of the Eightfold path along with insights into the Four noble truths as the elementary teaching of Buddha’s dharma.
Starting with the mystification, inventing of tradition, and numerous other ambivalencies concerning seonmudo, I want to take a critical stance towards the phenomenon itself and its translation into various bodily disciplines supposedly leading to the clearing of the mind. According to the self-presentation of temple administrators, this newly created fusion is a genuine source of knowledge and practice for some truth seekers who are looking for transformational experiences during the few days of their temple stay.